Lee Reich Videos

Visit Lee’s YouTube Channel Life on the Farmden.

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From PBS Growing a Greener World:


  1. Jane
    Posted August 20, 2015 at 11:24 pm | Permalink

    please add me to your distribution list.

  2. Dana
    Posted September 11, 2015 at 11:29 pm | Permalink

    Please add me to your distribution list also. Thank you, Dana

  3. Sarah Lynch
    Posted October 10, 2015 at 1:12 pm | Permalink

    Hi Lee,

    I enjoyed your weedless gardening insight on “Growing a Greener World”.
    Can you share the brand of your drip irrigation tubing with self-cleaning engineered orifices? My garden drip system has emitters that clog and are ineffective.

    Thank you,

    • Posted October 14, 2015 at 6:56 pm | Permalink

      I use 1/4″ dripperline. If I had longer runs or differences in elevation, I would use 1/2″ pressure compensating drip line or else T-tape. I got my supplies from Dripworks but there are other sellers of these tubes also. Google “drip irrigation” to get other sources.

  4. Deane Phelps
    Posted October 16, 2015 at 9:19 pm | Permalink

    How do i START a no till garden? ( I have a grassy area adjacent to beds i’ve gardening in but need to move from. Tomatoes have had wilt.)

    • Posted October 21, 2015 at 8:51 pm | Permalink

      I cover it in detail in my book WEEDLESS GARDENING but the short version is to mow or knock all vegetation down, cover it with 4 layers of overlapped, wetted newspaper, then add an inch or more of compost wherever there will be planting beds, and a layer of wood chips, straw, sawdust, or other weed free materials in the proposed paths.

  5. Ellen Helijas
    Posted April 3, 2016 at 12:07 pm | Permalink

    Any tips on growing great broccoli and keeping those green worms off them Also deterrents for rabbits?

    Thank you. I love your explanation of how to prep the soil for planting.Very straightforward.


    My garden is in central eastern VT.

    • Posted April 5, 2016 at 10:19 am | Permalink

      I’m not the one to ask about broccoli; I don’t like the flavor. Generally, though, broccoli needs a rich soil and adequate moisture. For the green worms, you could cover the plants with “floating row covers.” You could spray with biological control Bt, Bacillus thurengiensis, sold under such names as Dipel and Thuricide. Rabbits are easy to control; a 2 foot high fence will do it. Bend the bottom 6″ to make an L and put the foot of the L facing out. This way, when the rabbits get up to the fence and try to dig, they encounter fence on the ground.

  6. Katie
    Posted June 14, 2016 at 7:40 pm | Permalink


    I’ve recently come across and read your book “Weedless Gardening.” It inspired me to put your methods into practice.

    So far, I’ve fenced off an area (due to rabbits), placed 4 layers of newspaper on area of mowed lawn, placed hay in the walking path areas, and placed 1″ of chicken coop bedding (mixture of wood chips and chicken waste that has mostly become compost) for the bed areas. I’m now ready to plant.

    My question is in regards to the planting itself. I plan to plant both seeds and bulbs. What are the best methods for doing this, taking minimal soil disruption into account? Regular planting would have me digging up quite a bit of dirt for each bulb. I know you advise against disturbing too much earth.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated?

    Thanks again,

    • Posted June 16, 2016 at 9:16 am | Permalink

      Dig a hole only big enough to get the bulb in. Also, straw would have been better than hay for paths. Hay has seeds in it.

  7. Fern G Fried
    Posted October 4, 2016 at 11:51 am | Permalink

    I have been growing a variety of berries, grapes, figs, hardy kiwi etc in my home garden in Bucks County PA with variable success. Do you know of anyone that I can have do a ‘housecall” for recommendations with fertilizing, pruning, etc.
    Love your books!

  8. Freddi Dunleavey
    Posted March 10, 2017 at 7:49 am | Permalink

    Hi Lee! We read you weekly in the WT. Where would be be able to get oyster mushroom spore? Anyplace in the Shandaken area? If we can get it, we’re going to try the “toilet paper” ‘shroom idea!

    We live on the SW side of Belleayre Mtn. (facing Dry Brook Ridge and the Balsam Lake Tower) at 2600’ and have been planting in hay (not straw) bales (in six raised beds) for the past six growing seasons. We buy mulch/old hay (something one wouldn’t want to feed to animals due to dust/mold) and have had not had a single weed (except for the time 3 years ago when we added cattle manure to it…ugh…lots of rocks and weeds….we will never to that again!).

    We’ve had great luck with: potatoes (yukon & red), squash (of all kinds, winter and summer), beans (including edamame), peas, GARLIC!, kale….not so much luck with peppers (too cool up here) nor tomatoes (blight). We had decent luck with broccoli (seeds from friend in Alaska).

    We compost all kitchen waste and add paper shreds and wood ashes to it. The compost is used to hill pots and some is added with the seeds or starts. The hay decomposes, turning into soil. We collect rain water in a huge water tank and use gravity fed drip hoses when watering is needed.

    I saw your photos and your garden looks wonderful As I read your WT articles, I’m always envious of your immense talent and knowledge!

    We look forward to hearing more of your farmden adventures!

    (Ms.) Freddi Dunleavey & (Mr.) Goline Doremus

    • Posted March 13, 2017 at 11:47 am | Permalink

      I get the spores mail order, from http://www.fieldforest.net, for example. One caution with the hay: be careful not to get any that has been treated with Picloram, Clopyralid or Aminopyralid Herbicides. I’m hoping to be at Belleyare shortly, following the upcoming snowstorm.

  9. Heidi Swets
    Posted March 13, 2017 at 5:40 pm | Permalink

    HI Lee,
    Saw an article about you in a magazine recently. As my scoliosis pains me more these days, making it hard for me to dig as much as before, i am finally considering the no-till approach. My question has to do with quack grass. Here in NE Iowa it grows very vigorously, the roots go very far. In good garden soil they’re almost succulent (wish they were edible!)
    We have always worked very hard to eliminate them from our growing beds, knowing that if left untended, they completely take over. I have killed them by covering areas with black plastic for a season, but i’m skeptical that straw mulch with or without newspaper would do the same. What is your experience with this perennial grass?

    Heidi Swets

    • Posted March 13, 2017 at 7:58 pm | Permalink

      Quackgrass was my first weed when I began gardening. I completely killed it with mulch — a truckload of water weeds harvested by the city from lakes In Madison, WI. I expect that straw mulch and newspaper would be equally effective.

  10. Anthony Greco
    Posted May 30, 2017 at 6:50 pm | Permalink

    Please add me to your distribution list

  11. Deborah BOOCOCK
    Posted June 26, 2017 at 8:29 am | Permalink

    Pleas add me to your list. I live in Northen Vermont and I’m looking for anything that will help me grow more food in my short season.

  12. Frannie Lebow
    Posted August 23, 2017 at 11:33 am | Permalink

    Please add me to your email list.

  13. Marc Bobson
    Posted January 29, 2018 at 12:40 pm | Permalink

    Please add me to your list. Thanks, Marc

  14. Ronald E. Lalancette
    Posted February 25, 2018 at 4:16 pm | Permalink

    Please add me. Thanks!

  15. Katie
    Posted March 3, 2018 at 10:43 pm | Permalink

    Please add me! Thanks 🙂

  16. Frank
    Posted April 28, 2018 at 2:32 pm | Permalink

    Great and useful ideas and information. Can you add me to your distribution list.

  17. Renee Bruce
    Posted May 13, 2018 at 10:28 am | Permalink

    Hi! Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Please add me to your distribution list.

  18. Jeff mccollough
    Posted May 14, 2018 at 9:05 pm | Permalink

    Please add me to your distribution list. I’m one of your needless converts. The BCS is collecting dust. The annual garden budget goes mostly to weed free compost, no more bags of fertilizer, landscape fabric, or quack grass battles in this garden. Took me a long time and a thousand mistakes to get here.

  19. Jeff mccollough
    Posted May 14, 2018 at 9:31 pm | Permalink

    What a great inspiration.

  20. judy thomson
    Posted May 22, 2018 at 1:51 pm | Permalink

    Have several of your books, excited to find your website!

  21. Jim Pryor
    Posted May 24, 2018 at 11:32 am | Permalink

    Please add me to your distribution list.

  22. Daniel Chastain
    Posted May 26, 2018 at 10:43 pm | Permalink

    I would also like to be added to your distribution list. I’m a 1 acre market gardener basing my set up now on a perma bed no till rotation with cover crop, occultation, amendment, plant strategy, but steadily working my up the learning curve and really want to better understand the synergy of the soil and the produce, and how I can grow better.

    • Posted May 31, 2018 at 9:47 am | Permalink

      Great! The learning never ends and the gardening/farming just keeps getting better. If I might suggest, there’s a lot of information you seek that is applicable to both farms and gardens in my new book THE EVER CURIOUS GARDENER. By the way, what is “occultation.”

  23. Mark Garman
    Posted June 25, 2018 at 11:06 am | Permalink

    Please add me to any distribution list you might have. I have a 50×75 foot garden, separate watermelon patch, and am just starting to grow grapes, muscadines, figs, blueberries.

  24. Jim Benson
    Posted November 20, 2018 at 7:16 pm | Permalink

    I would love to be added to your distribution list.

    I’m also interested in what steps I could take to winterize my Michigan garden. It is a space roughly 20′ x 30′. Would now be a good time to place a newspaper barrier and cover with mulch? Want my growing season to begin early in the spring. Thank you.

  25. Cindy Robertson
    Posted December 2, 2018 at 8:34 am | Permalink

    Please add me to your list! Thanks.

  26. T. Waniga
    Posted February 18, 2019 at 12:18 pm | Permalink

    Please add to distrib. Came to you via A Way to Garden.

  27. Anthony Occhino
    Posted February 27, 2019 at 10:11 pm | Permalink

    Yes Lee please add me to your distribution list. I’v been a long time study of yours and been to your farm for refreshers on gardens and compost.
    Last I recall you were discussing in the paper about the bamboo and it how it spreads , I also grow it and it get’s out of hand.
    So thank you and I enjoy your lectures.

  28. Audrey Opland
    Posted June 9, 2019 at 11:11 pm | Permalink

    Hi, Lee,

    Your videos are great, and now I have to start reading your books.

    Wonder if you could tell me— has companion planting been studied scientifically? I generally follow the guidelines, but have never found a chart that seems to be evidence based.

    About comfrey—are there uses for it, in your opinion ? Is there a non-invasive cultivar , and do you know where to purchase it?

    Regarding straw on no till beds—does it become a haven for rodents?

    Kindly add me to your distribution list. Thanks so much,
    Audrey Opland
    Zone 6A in eastern Massachusetts

    • Posted June 11, 2019 at 8:53 pm | Permalink

      Hi Audrey, Generally, companion planting has not panned out when subject to scientific scrutiny. Comfrey? Probably not a wonder plant, but does have some uses. It’s pretty when flowering, for instance. I once saw a dwarf form that was especially pretty. I’ll add you to my list.

  29. Jerry
    Posted September 19, 2019 at 9:51 pm | Permalink

    There are a lot of people that would love it if you would create new YouTube videos. Instructional, tips, farmden updates, anything.

    • Posted September 20, 2019 at 8:03 pm | Permalink

      I’ve heard that. It’s on my list of things to do, sometime.

  30. Lynn Neher
    Posted October 19, 2019 at 8:15 pm | Permalink

    Please add me to your list. Thank you.

  31. Joe Wiercinski
    Posted November 5, 2019 at 11:08 am | Permalink

    Please add me to your distribution list. Thanks – Joe Wiercinski

  32. Reid Grossmann
    Posted January 8, 2020 at 3:43 pm | Permalink

    Please add me to your distribution list as well. About to retire and time to start gardening for real.

    Many thanks,

    Reid Grossmann

  33. George wright
    Posted March 1, 2020 at 8:03 am | Permalink

    Thank you for your videos…….ben a little sick some people binge watch game of thrones movies binge watch garden videos. Very informative especially since you are in my area sort of i am just west of the catskills near binghamton. Thank you

  34. Debbie Onacki
    Posted December 15, 2020 at 11:02 am | Permalink

    Please add me to your list.

  35. Gina Ovard
    Posted March 19, 2021 at 11:48 pm | Permalink

    I just watched your video and enjoyed it very much! I am planting a new garden in an area that was allowed (by previous owners) to contain a vast amount of weeds. It was also driven over by their tractor. I would love to employ your no till method, but I am wondering if it is possible in this situation? I was thinking I might need to double dig the planting areas, then add something like vermiculite, peat, compost etc. to the soil for the initial year. Then I would employ your methods after that. Is this a good plan? My other thought is that I should give up on the existing situation and construct raised beds. What would you advise?
    Thanks so much!

    • Posted March 21, 2021 at 8:30 pm | Permalink

      Are you saying that the soil is compacted? Do you know that for sure? Doing a soil drainage test is one reason to find out. At any rate, double digging is not necessary. Less drastic measures may be depending. But first determine if the soil is very high in clay and if it drains adequately.Quoting from my book THE EVER CURIOUS GARDENER, “Water drainage is so important that I give it top priority when assessing a potential planting site. Wetland plants such as purple loosestrife, buttercup, cattails, or cardinal flower tell of drainage problems. More quantitatively, I can measure drainage in summer by removing the top and the bottom from a straight-sided coffee can and, after digging a hole a few inches deep, sinking the can into the hole with its bottom edge pressed firmly into the soil at the bottom of the hole. I fill the can with water, let it drain, then fill it again, and measure how long it takes for the water level to drop. Any- thing slower than 1 inch per hour in- dicates a drainage problem.”

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