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Please add me to your distribution list also. Thank you, Dana
I enjoyed your weedless gardening insight on “Growing a Greener World”.
Can you share the brand of your drip irrigation tubing with self-cleaning engineered orifices? My garden drip system has emitters that clog and are ineffective.
I use 1/4″ dripperline. If I had longer runs or differences in elevation, I would use 1/2″ pressure compensating drip line or else T-tape. I got my supplies from Dripworks but there are other sellers of these tubes also. Google “drip irrigation” to get other sources.
How do i START a no till garden? ( I have a grassy area adjacent to beds i’ve gardening in but need to move from. Tomatoes have had wilt.)
I cover it in detail in my book WEEDLESS GARDENING but the short version is to mow or knock all vegetation down, cover it with 4 layers of overlapped, wetted newspaper, then add an inch or more of compost wherever there will be planting beds, and a layer of wood chips, straw, sawdust, or other weed free materials in the proposed paths.
Any tips on growing great broccoli and keeping those green worms off them Also deterrents for rabbits?
Thank you. I love your explanation of how to prep the soil for planting.Very straightforward.
My garden is in central eastern VT.
I’m not the one to ask about broccoli; I don’t like the flavor. Generally, though, broccoli needs a rich soil and adequate moisture. For the green worms, you could cover the plants with “floating row covers.” You could spray with biological control Bt, Bacillus thurengiensis, sold under such names as Dipel and Thuricide. Rabbits are easy to control; a 2 foot high fence will do it. Bend the bottom 6″ to make an L and put the foot of the L facing out. This way, when the rabbits get up to the fence and try to dig, they encounter fence on the ground.
I’ve recently come across and read your book “Weedless Gardening.” It inspired me to put your methods into practice.
So far, I’ve fenced off an area (due to rabbits), placed 4 layers of newspaper on area of mowed lawn, placed hay in the walking path areas, and placed 1″ of chicken coop bedding (mixture of wood chips and chicken waste that has mostly become compost) for the bed areas. I’m now ready to plant.
My question is in regards to the planting itself. I plan to plant both seeds and bulbs. What are the best methods for doing this, taking minimal soil disruption into account? Regular planting would have me digging up quite a bit of dirt for each bulb. I know you advise against disturbing too much earth.
Any suggestions would be appreciated?
Dig a hole only big enough to get the bulb in. Also, straw would have been better than hay for paths. Hay has seeds in it.
I have been growing a variety of berries, grapes, figs, hardy kiwi etc in my home garden in Bucks County PA with variable success. Do you know of anyone that I can have do a ‘housecall” for recommendations with fertilizing, pruning, etc.
Love your books!
Hi Lee! We read you weekly in the WT. Where would be be able to get oyster mushroom spore? Anyplace in the Shandaken area? If we can get it, we’re going to try the “toilet paper” ‘shroom idea!
We live on the SW side of Belleayre Mtn. (facing Dry Brook Ridge and the Balsam Lake Tower) at 2600’ and have been planting in hay (not straw) bales (in six raised beds) for the past six growing seasons. We buy mulch/old hay (something one wouldn’t want to feed to animals due to dust/mold) and have had not had a single weed (except for the time 3 years ago when we added cattle manure to it…ugh…lots of rocks and weeds….we will never to that again!).
We’ve had great luck with: potatoes (yukon & red), squash (of all kinds, winter and summer), beans (including edamame), peas, GARLIC!, kale….not so much luck with peppers (too cool up here) nor tomatoes (blight). We had decent luck with broccoli (seeds from friend in Alaska).
We compost all kitchen waste and add paper shreds and wood ashes to it. The compost is used to hill pots and some is added with the seeds or starts. The hay decomposes, turning into soil. We collect rain water in a huge water tank and use gravity fed drip hoses when watering is needed.
I saw your photos and your garden looks wonderful As I read your WT articles, I’m always envious of your immense talent and knowledge!
We look forward to hearing more of your farmden adventures!
(Ms.) Freddi Dunleavey & (Mr.) Goline Doremus
I get the spores mail order, from http://www.fieldforest.net, for example. One caution with the hay: be careful not to get any that has been treated with Picloram, Clopyralid or Aminopyralid Herbicides. I’m hoping to be at Belleyare shortly, following the upcoming snowstorm.
Saw an article about you in a magazine recently. As my scoliosis pains me more these days, making it hard for me to dig as much as before, i am finally considering the no-till approach. My question has to do with quack grass. Here in NE Iowa it grows very vigorously, the roots go very far. In good garden soil they’re almost succulent (wish they were edible!)
We have always worked very hard to eliminate them from our growing beds, knowing that if left untended, they completely take over. I have killed them by covering areas with black plastic for a season, but i’m skeptical that straw mulch with or without newspaper would do the same. What is your experience with this perennial grass?
Quackgrass was my first weed when I began gardening. I completely killed it with mulch — a truckload of water weeds harvested by the city from lakes In Madison, WI. I expect that straw mulch and newspaper would be equally effective.
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